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‘Soup Broth Bread’ Takes an Irish Approach to Seasonal Cooking - The New York Times


‘Soup Broth Bread’ Takes an Irish Approach to Seasonal Cooking

Be sure to have the kitchen scale set for grams, not ounces, to tackle “Soup Broth Bread,” a cookbook by Rachel Allen, a member of the family that runs the Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, Ireland. (Metric measurements are all Ms. Allen uses.) The beautifully photographed book takes you throughout four seasons of soups; there’s still time to make salmorejo, a delicious pared-down gazpacho. The chowderlike Nordic salmon and dill soup can anchor a meal, and yellow lentil soup with lemon and parsley knows no seasons. Why the rib-sticking beef and sweet potato goulash soup settled in the spring chapter, alongside others like asparagus with tarragon is puzzling; maybe it says something in spring weather in Ireland. The bread side of the equation is hearty, with whole wheat, buckwheat and oat loaves, both yeast and soda-leavened.

“Soup Broth Bread: 120 Vibrant and Heartwarming Recipes” by Rachel Allen (Michael Joseph, $35).

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